Pezenas
Pézenas is a open theater, it still dazzles us with its charm and
wealth of history. Take a walk around the back streets and you will wander
through medieval alleyways and squares bordered by magnificent stately homes, grand dwellings that have been
carefully preserved since the 18th century, famous for their
stone sculpture, and ornate doorways.
You can pass through impressive doors, to
admire the inner courtyards – a magnificent renaissance staircase in Hôtel de
Lacoste, a balcony in Hôtel Carion de Nizas, striking arches, and columns of
Hôtel d’Alfonse. All of them familiar to the 17th century playwright Molière, who
presented the first performance of "Le Médecin Volant" in 1655 to the
court of the Prince de Conti.
Place Gambetta
Hotel Lacoste
During
the warmer months (from Easter), the heart of the city comes alive. In the old
quarter, take a walk rounds the “echoppes” or artist’s workshop (at night Wednesday and Friday):
leatherwork, ironmongery sweets, quilting, painters, sculptors, you will be
spoiled for choice.
les echoppes
The two specialties of Pezenas are “the petit pates” a sort of
warm mince pies. The story is that in
1766, an English nobleman called Lord Clive, Governor of India, came to Pézenas
for his health, bringing with him an Indian cook, because he didn’t trust the
French cuisine. The cook prepared some curried sweet meat pies for picnics on the
river. When Lord Clive left, he passed on the secret recipe to the “piscenois”
who have been making them ever since, you can find them in boulangeries across
Pezenas .
Markets in Pezenas
On Saturday, there is the only bio (organic) market in the
Herault from 8 till 1pm at the Place Gambetta it runs alongside the traditional
market which is along the Cours Jean Jaures, be there early as parking can be
tricky.
During the summer, the producer’s market from Pezenas and
around is held every Friday night from 8pm till midnight, you can get food and
wine there and sway to the different band every week.
On the 14th of July, there are bands and the
traditional fireworks that lit the city. Great atmosphere!
We like
- Le Cocomango-
Near the church. Brilliant ice cream, staff sometimes grumpy, but worth it.
- L’entre-pots:
a restaurant that has a lovely courtyard and great food, menu starting at 25€
for three course. Booking advised.
- Le Conti
: nestled in the rue Conti is the restaurant we would recommend there among all
the others. The menu changes quite often, they also do good pizzas.
- Latte
glace at café Blablah just behind the post office.
